TWIST: painted cotton warp for cardweaving

Painting the warp offer more control and more spontaneity than dip dyeing a cotton or linen warp. My previous article deals with dip dyeing silk warps in hot acid dyes, which I do prefer for silk.

Warp painting using Fiber Reactive dyes such as Procion in the soda soak method is a technique I learned from Candace Crockett. I find it is more flexible than dip dyeing each individual color in its own Procion dyebath. Using this technique I can work freely with many colors at the same time instead of successive lengthy single color dyebaths. It is possible to keep create the look of an Ikat warp without using Ikat tape or yarn resists. Of course for a well-defined Ikat pattern, you may use the resists and then proceed with this same painting technique.

This is how I use the technique when I paint my multiple color, variegated bands. The measurements given below are for a 20 card, 80-thread 2-½ yard (2 meter) warp. I first prepare two separate 40 thread warps of a high twist lustrous cotton or linen, like a 5/2 pearl cotton. Tie a choke knot at each end of each warp to prevent tangling.

Soak both warps in a solution of 4 Tablespoons of soda ash and 1 quart of water (or about 4 soupspoons in 1 liter) for 10 minutes. Soda Ash or Sodium Carbonate, is sometimes called Washing Soda. It is a mild alkali that aids in the reaction between the dye and the cellulose fiber. Squeeze out the warps but do not rinse them. Stretch out one warp on a long piece of plastic wrap. I prefer to work on threads that are still moist with the soda solution. The water actually prevents the dye from migrating too far, but does allow some seepage into white areas creating beautiful half tones. You may allow the soda soaked yarns to dry first if you prefer.

Mix one quart of water with 4 Tablespoons of Urea (or about 4 soupspoons in 1 liter). This will be the liquid to which you add the dyes. This should be enough for all 6 dyes you will mix up for this band.

Pour a half a cup of Urea water into each of 6 plastic cups. Paste and mix up three colors of Procion dye, either three hot colors (shades of red, orange and yellow or magenta) or three cold colors (shades of blue, green, and purple). I use one half teaspoon to one teaspoon of dye in a half a cup of the water and Urea solution for each color. You will need to experiment to get the depth of color you want.

Paint the dyes on the warps with sponge brushes, alternating colors and leaving some short white areas between colors where the dyes can migrate and create half tone areas. It is sometimes difficult to get saturated color when painting. Be sure to paint the whole bundle of threads, not just the top, or white areas may show when the threads twist in weaving. Clean up any excess drips of dye from the plastic wrap with paper towels. The exact length of each colored area is not important. I usually do areas of about six inches (15 centimeters.) You will have to experiment with the amount of bleeding you get. Wrap up the painted warp well in the plastic wrap, coil it gently into a plastic zip lock bag and store it undisturbed in a warm place for 8 to 24 hours to set the dye. A warm environment is especially important for dyes with Procion turquoise in them. You may leave the bag in the sun for 8 hours instead. The threads should stay wet in the plastic wrap.

Because of the time it takes to set these painted dyes, I do not know if I can solve your desire to "correct a hue whenever desired during the process." Colors always dry lighter. You will not know the true color until the dyes are rinsed out and the threads dry completely.

You will have to experiment to see how much dye is needed for the depth of color you want. I like bold colors rather that pastels for these bands since I am interested in the vibration which occurs when bold contrasting colors interact. As in all we do, sampling can be helpful.

As soon as the first warp is wrapped up, mix up three different colors (cold colors if you have started with the hot ones, for example). Stretch out the other half of the soda soaked warp threads on a clean piece of plastic wrap, and proceed as above.

Finally, when the dye is set, rinse the yarns well in Synthrapol or some other mild soap to remove all the excess dye, and dry with a bit of tension or occasional pulling to straighten out the threads.

You may then proceed to warp and weave for the Broad Diagonal patterns as seen in Candace Crockett's Cardweaving and called "Diagonal Stripes produced by Tablets with colours arranged in Clockwise or anti-Clockwise Manner" in Peter Collingwood's The Technique of Tablet Weaving. Use two hot and two cold threads in each card in adjoining holes as follows: First card: hole A hot colored thread, B hot, C cold, D cold. Second card: B hot, C hot, D cold, A cold. Third card: hole C hot, D hot, A cold, B cold, etc.) A wide variety of patterns are available with this threading.

The beauty of this technique is the way the colors surprise you as you weave up the band. I hope you enjoy experimenting in this way.

In press as of Fall 2003, TWIST magazine. Reprinted with permission.